Welcome to part two of our Fashion Through the Ages series. Paris: École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts. Sleeves and women's skirts then began to widen again, w… However, not all women or men were allowed to wear jewellery because of the sumptuary laws that restricted wearing certain types of jewellery and luxurious fabrics, such as purple velvet, to first royalty and then nobility. Giorgione’s Double Portrait (Fig. Many of the women around Queen Elizabeth I at court could be seen wearing her cast-offs and others in society strove to emulate her style. Source: Kunsthistorisches, Fig. Sherrill, Tawny: "Fleas, Furs, and Fashions: Learn how and when to remove this template message, Eleanor of Austria, Queen of Portugal and France, Empress and Queen of Spain Isabella of Portugal, An unidentified princess believed to be Mary Tudor or Catherine of Aragon, "Tudor Silver-Gilt Dress-hooks: A New Class of Treasure Find in England", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1500–1550_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=993905093, Articles lacking in-text citations from April 2017, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. In that same year, 71 percent of England's land was devoted to agriculture: 24 percent was rented and the remaining 47 percent was owned by resident farmers or farming enterprises. At the start of the sixteenth century, women dressed as they had for much of the fifteenth century, though changes were slowly introduced. A description of Katherine of Aragon upon her marriage to Prince Arthur in 1501 mentions the farthingale’s traditional hoops: “her gown was very large, bothe the slevys and also the body with many plightes, much litche unto menys clothyng, and aftir the same fourme the remenant of the ladies of Hispanyne were arayed; and beneath her wastes certayn rownde hopys beryng owte ther gownes from the bodies aftir their countray maner.” (Elizabethan Costume), [“her gown was very large, both the sleeves and also the body with many pleats, much like unto men’s clothing, and after the same form the raiment of the ladies of Spain were arrayed; and beneath their waists certain round hoops bearing out their gowns from the bodies after their country’s manner.”]. 5), commonly seen in Germany. She is the editor of Fashion in European Art: Dress and Identity, Politics and the Body, 1775-1925 (I.B. If you’ve been watching period pieces recently, With the first half of the 1940s dominated by Worl, The black fabric that tones down Doña Maria Tomas, The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s (2017), Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art and Fashion (1998), 100 Dresses: The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2010), We Were There: Harlie Des Roches on the Black Presence in Renaissance Europe, Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes, Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving, Grand Opening of the Museum of Historical Costume in Poznan, Poland, The Wallraf-Richartz-Museum & Fondation Corboud, http://tudortimes.co.uk/people/anne-of-brittany-life-story/queen-of-france, http://www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html, http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000052132&page=1, https://lib.ugent.be/en/catalog?q=rug01:000794288, http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000012553&page=1, http://hdl.handle.net/10111/UIUCUNICA:erasde0001ciumor, http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099490&page=1, https://www.kb.nl/kbhtml/alba/frameset9.html, http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099924&page=1, http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000022768&page=1, http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099918&page=1, http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000016695&page=1, https://collections.lacma.org/node/172051, https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/008965469, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1500%E2%80%931550_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=818779252, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=810773280, http://www.elizabethancostume.net/index.html, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/broi/hd_broi.htm, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas/hd_afas.htm, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas16/hd_afas16.htm, http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/f/reading-list-fashion-up-to-the-17th-century/, http://www.renaissancetailor.com/research_vocabulary.htm, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/velv/hd_velv.htm, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/deca/hd_deca.htm, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1500-1599-men-in-art/1500s/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1500-1599-women-in-art/1500s/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1500-1599-extant-clothing/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1500-1599-fabrics-textiles/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1500-1599-jewelry/, https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1500-1599-armour/, 1568 – Bernardino Campi, Portrait of a Woman, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. Oil on panel; 38.8 x 27.9 cm. 2 - Jean Bourdichon (French, 1457-1521). Parchment; 30 x 19 cm. This is paired with a kirtle with gold sleeves, a golden girdle (belt) and a French hood. Yellow and red were fashionable colours. 11 - Artist unknown (Italian). LACMA Collections. 7 - Giorgione (Italian, 1470s-1510). An illumination in the Grandes Heures depicts Anne in prayer, surrounded by three saints (Fig. 4 – painted in 18th century depicting c. 1525. Anne of Brittany (1477-1514) was Duchess of Brittany and twice crowned the Queen of France. Slashing, the deliberate cutting of fabric for decorative effect, and pinking (a more regular, smaller version of slashing) were quite common. 9). She also wears a delicate black circlet in her hair. 1 - Lucas Cranach the Elder (German, 1472–1553). A front-opening overgown, often fur-lined for warmth and slashed, with sleeves. Source: Wikipedia, Fig. Here are some facts about the England in the 1500s: Most people got married in June because they took their yearly bath in May, and, still smelled pretty good by June. 9 - Lucas Cranach the Elder (German, 1472-1553). Limewood; 94 x 51 cm. Maria Hayward describes the types of furs that were commonly worn (by men and women) in Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII’s England (2009): “In the early sixteenth century, dark and light furs were very popular instead of the bright red/brown furs favoured in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. German bear-claw shoe, 1800s illustration, Polish boy's duckbill platform shoes, 1530, Duck-bill shoes of a Wittenberg pastor, 1546. A variety of hats, caps, hoods, hair nets, and other headresses were worn, with strong regional variations. The triangular opening of her gown that reveals the golden kirtle beneath is a trend that will become popular in later decades—notably none of her ladies in waiting have yet adopted it, though they all wear gowns with square-cut necklines, large sleeve openings and fur cuffs as Anne does. His gown with its gold brocade sleeves, extensive fur revers and jeweled trim is particularly elaborate. As we saw above, Anne of Brittany was a tremendous consumer of sable fur, as all fashionable men and women who were permitted to wear such furs were. Portrait of Lisa Gherardini, wife of Francesco del Giocondo, known as the Mona Lisa, 1503-1517. “Fashion in European Armor, 1400–1500.” (October 2004) Breiding, Dirk H.. “ Fashion in European Armor, 1600–1700 .” (October 2004) Raphael’s portrait of Maddalena Doni (Fig. View the outfits and fashions of the Middle Ages, the Tudors and Stuarts, Civil War and Georgians. Silk brocades and velvets in bold floral patterns based on pomegranate and thistle or artichoke motifs remained fashionable for those who could afford them, although they were often restricted to kirtles, undersleeves and doublets revealed beneath gowns of solid-coloured fabrics or monochromatic figured silks. Heere, Lucas d’. Considered to be the first battle in history won by gunpowder small arms. As a fitted style emerged under Spanish influence, the gown was made as a separate bodice and skirt; this bodice usually fastened at the side or the side-back with hooks and eyes or lacing. Jean Hey gives a sense of what this looked like among the elite in his slightly earlier portrait of the Dauphin Charles-Orlant (Fig. Vienna: Kunsthistorisches Museum, Gemäldegalerie, 4404. Her gown cuffs seem to be trimmed in sable and her kirtle sleeves are red, trimmed in gold. For women, fashion was simple but made attractive. Bequest of A. Augustus Healy. A variety of hats were worn in the period. Throughout this period, fashionable men's clothing consisted of: From the 1530s, a narrower silhouette became popular under Spanish influence. Liechtenstein: The Princely Collections, Inv.-No. See more ideas about renaissance fashion, historical clothing, 16th century fashion. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (Redirected from 1500-1550 in fashion). A jeweled wreath with enameled "orange blossoms" was sometimes worn. Sleeves were puffed and slashed, or elaborately cuffed. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fig. Windsor Castle, RCIN 403438. Houppelande: a full-skirted outer garment, usually full length, worn by both men and women in the 14th century and then by women only (except in England, where Richard II introduced a variety) until it went out of fashion about 1450. She has a strong interest in curatorial work and contributed to the “Impressionism, Fashion & Modernity” exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Musée d’Orsay, and Art Institute of Chicago. 1502 – First reported African slaves in The New World. Deep, open necklines were usually covered by smooth, sheer partlets or linen chemises. There was no concept of "British history" in the 1500s, except that the word "British" was used to refer to the ancient Britons and the Welsh. Fresco. Stays also appeared during this period. The abundance of particoloring makes sense given the murals earlier start date and perhaps the tendency of trends to live on longer in non-elite circles. Bertelli, Pietro. Piper and Drummer, ca. 11), where men wear Italian-style bonnets with cut and laced together brims. “Fashion up to the 17th Century Reading List,” January 13, 2011. Source: Web Gallery of Art, Fig. Dresden: Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Gal.-Nr. Catellano Trivulzio is keen we not miss any detail of his own shirt, which is elaborately embroidered with gold thread (Fig. 1500. In the early 16th century, infants were swaddled, and toddlers were dressed in simple linen smocks or chemises. In order to produce loose curls, women wrapped hair saturated in gum arabic or beer around clay curlers. Another popular silhouette was the narrow pencil-skirt look. 7) shows the now familiar low, square-cut doublet and exposed shirt; his doublet is edged in gold and two gold points dangle from his bonnet. 1050 to 1490: 11th to 15th century, including the Wars of the Roses. Alcega, Juan de. Neither image reveals the presence of a Spanish farthingale, or hooped underskirt, that will come to dominate the feminine silhouette in later decades. The wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders had reached its peak in the 1530s, and by mid-century a tall, narrow line with a V-lined waist was back in fashion. Fig. Wired collars The ruff, which was worn by both men and women, was still popular during the first decade, but it eventually disappeared in England in 1613. Zurich: Winterthur, 1925-1a. Although safer alternatives existed, women preferred the consistency and coverage offered by ceruse. This page presents a timeline of events in the history of England and Scotland from 1500 until 1599. From the 1530s, French and English fashions featured an open, square-necked gown with long sleeves fitted smoothly over a tight corset or pair of bodies and a farthingale. Women of wealth wore gold chains and other precious jewellery; collar-like necklaces called carcanets, earrings, bracelets, rings, and jewelled pins. H. O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929. Her research and writing interests include nineteenth- and twentieth-century art and literature, visual and material culture, modernism and fashion. 61. Shoes for men and women were flat, and often slashed and fastened with a strap across the instep. The portrait emphasizes his long neck as Hill discussed above. 1). There was a general shortage of labourers which meant wages were high and rents low. Oil on poplar; 77 x 53 cm. Tauris 2017/Bloomsbury 2019). “Diuersarū Nationum Habitus Centum, et Quattuor Iconibus in Aere Incisis Diligenter Expressi Item Ordines Duo Processionum Vnus Summi Pontificis Alter Sereniss. 3 - Albrecht Dürer (German, 1471-1528). Skirts were trimmed with bands of contrasting fabric, but were closed all around. Source: Louvre, Fig. However, towns grew larger and more important. These would be used either with black gowns to indicate understated wealth or to form a strong contrast with paler fabrics. Portraits produced during the Renaissance provide an invaluable resource for visualizing and understanding the beauty ideals of the period. Source: Wikimedia Commons, 1500-1509, 16th century, G, H, term definition. Toward the middle of the century, shoes became narrower and were shaped naturally to the foot. Portrait of a Lady, 1500. In the 16th century gable headdress had long embroidered lappets framing the face and a loose veil behind; later the gable hood would be worn over several layers that completely concealed the hair, and the lappets and veil would be pinned up in a variety of ways. 4 - Bernardino Zaganelli da Cotignola (Italian, 1460-1510). 1). Florence: Uffizi. These were often decorated with bands of embroidery or applied passementerie. “Album Amicorum of a German Soldier,” 1595. That time, corsets were typically worn with a farthingale that held out the skirts in a stiff cone. Jerkins closed to the neck; their skirts were shorter and slightly flared rather than full, and they displayed more of the hose. In Rome, the woman wore a palla ( a shawl draped over her head) over her stola ( a long dress). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 29.100.24. The toga was a semi-circular cloth draped over the body and was a mark of Roman citizenship. Rorimer, James J. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation remained prominent. In the standalone portrait, her black kirtle with gold lace trim is visible beneath her red gown and the kirtle’s narrow sleeves, also edged in gold, emerge from her gown’s fur-lined cuffs (her white chemise cuffs are also visible). Jerkins, often skirted, were worn over the doublet (it is often difficult to distinguish the two in portraits). Elizabeth of York (Fig. Chicago: Art Institute of Chicago, 1938.1461. Timeline 16th Century 1500 - 1599. The clothing styles of medieval Europe in the early Middle Ages (aka Dark Ages) were not fashion as we know it. 9). Oil on pine; 60 x 45 cm (23.6 x 17.7 in). “Libro de Geometria, Practica y Traça / Tailor’s Pattern Book.” Biblioteca Digital Hispánica, 1580. Albrecht Dürer - Two Musicians - WGA6952.jpg 700 × 1,289; 164 KB If you have suggestions or corrections, please contact us. Fresco. The earlier cuffed sleeves evolved into trumpet sleeves, tight on the upper arm and flared below, with wide, turned back cuffs (often lined with fur) worn over full undersleeves that might match the decorated forepart. She wears a delicate dark veil rather than a circlet. Legal rights to property have their origin in the period 1500–1800, when landholders enclosed land … Source: Wikipedia, Fig. Source: Liechtenstein, Fig. 6 essential time management skills and techniques [18][19], A fashionable accessory was the zibellino, the pelt of a sable or marten worn draped at the neck or hanging at the waist; some costume historians call these "flea furs". 1 - Master of Afflighem. Doublet sleeves became fuller rather than tight. Bianca Maria Sforza, born in Milan, became Holy Roman Empress in 1508 and thus her portrait from around that time (Fig. Legs were covered in hose ending at the knee, with the two legs joined by a codpiece; netherhose or stockings were worn below, supported by garters. Oil on panel; 72 x 89 cm. Bobbin lace arose from passementerie in this period, probably in Flanders,[10] and was used both as an edging and as applied trim; it is called passamayne in English inventories. May 6, 2019 - Explore Jenn Miller's board "1500's Fashion", followed by 127 people on Pinterest. The French gown of the first part of the century was loosely fitted to the body and flared from the hips, with a train. Catherine de Medici was known to introduce corsets to France, where the women of the French court adapted the fashion. 7) confirms these trends, with its low neckline, laced sleeves, and delicate caul (hair net). 10 - Andrea Solario (Italian, 1460 -1524). Colonies in America. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation became prominent. Philip the Handsome, Duke of Burgundy and husband of Joanna of Castile (Figs. Watt, Melinda. Cranach (Fig. 4) again shows the short doublet, this time skirted, with small paning at the shoulder; his sleeveless jerkin is green with scalloped edging at the armscye and applied ornamental braid (passementerie). Styles did not change rapidly. Children of the nobility must have had limited freedom of movement to play and romp because of the restrictive clothing they wore. As Queen of France, Anne was a great patron of the arts, commissioning very fine illuminated manuscripts, most importantly the Grandes Heures of Anne of Brittany, and possibly the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s famous unicorn tapestries (Rorimer). Black velvet partlets lined in white with a high, flared neckline were worn pinned over the gown. 2 - Master of Affligem (Flemish, active 1470-1500). He is clean shaven and has a shoulder-length bob. Oil on panel; 33 x 25 cm. Gloves of soft leather had short, sometimes slashed, cuffs and were perfumed. 11) reflects Northern trends, like the narrow sleeves laced together and the low-cut bodice filled in with bands of decorative embroidery and many gold chains. 1509 – Marriage of Katherine of Aragon to Henry VII of England starts a trend for geometric blackwork embroidery on linen clothing. The overgown was ankle length early in the period, but knee-length overgowns were fashionable in the 1530s and 1540s. Women's fashions of the early 16th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a kirtle or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin. Narrow sleeves were worn in the earliest years of the century, and were later decorated with bands of contrasting fabric and rows of small panes or strips over puffed linings. Partlets (called in German gollers or collars) were worn with the low-cut bodice to cover the neck and shoulders, and were made in a variety of styles. She wears a French hood, seemingly edged with diamonds (which often appear black due to their settings in this period), a substantial pearl and diamond-encrusted gold necklace, and a blue girdle. In 1500, England was a small country that did not count for much ... England and the world. 5 - Lucas Cranach the Elder (German, 1472-1553). In Italy especially, women sought to achieve the light tresses that were viewed as the ideal. 8 above), wears an immense gown with fur revers and a soft red hat with upturned, notched brim (Fig. Or a newly digitized periodical/book to announce? Style in men's and women's footwear was the same in this period. Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa (Fig. Linen caps called coifs were worn under the fur cap, hood or hat. 1503 – Spain defeats France at the Battle of Cerignola. Moses undergoing Trial by Fire (Fig. Oil on wood; 224.4 x 219 cm. German women adopted hats like fashionable men's baretts early in the century; these were worn over caps or cauls (colettes) made of netted cord over a silk lining. [17] Hats became fashionable in England as an alternative to the hood toward the 1540s. 1500. 12) the wife figure wears a blue brocade gown with a low, square neckline and ermine-lined sleeves. Oil on basswood panel; 63.5 x 45 cm. A Dürer painting from a few years later (Fig. Sleeves were narrow with long cuffs that extended to the knuckles.” (380). Vienna: Kunsthistorisches Museum, Picture Gallery, 6440. Even more extravagant was Anne’s wedding dress – of ‘drap d’or trait-enlevé’ – a type of figured cloth-of-gold, at 7,350 francs the yard, trimmed with sables.” (Tudor Times). Earrings could be a single ring, jewel or pearl. Johannes Cuspinian, husband of Anna (Fig. Juana I de Castilla, ca. Large brooches were worn to pin overpartlets to the dress beneath. Oil on wood panel; 31.7 x 21.7 cm. 1912 nos. 3), wife of Henry VII, wears a red velvet gown with a square neckline and ermine-lined sleeves. Dress - Dress - Europe, 1500–1800: The 16th century witnessed further changes occurring in Europe. Oil on wood; 42 x 31.2 cm. Women's fashions of the early 16th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a kirtle or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin. Fashion in England during the Elizabethan Age was considered a way of self-expression for all members of the social ranks. 1500. Unless specifically noted, images used in the Timeline are not subject to this Creative Commons License applied to the written work from the Timeline. Bianca Maria Sforza (1472-1510), Kaiserin, Halbfigur, 1505/10. Brussels: Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium. Tied with a belt, the part below the waist billowed out like a skirt, sometimes with a dagged hem. Fashion in the period 1550–1600 in Western European clothing was characterized by increased opulence. Vincent, Susan J., and Elizabeth Currie, eds. 3) fighting for Maximilian I, the Holy Roman emperor, shows the typical Northern silhouette and stylistic elements; his doublet is pinked across the abdomen, while his jerkin sleeves are paned (regular strips of fabric left open to reveal the fabric below). 3 - Artist unknown. 1 & 2 above), demonstrates many of the same trends, but, unsurprisingly given his rank, in much finer fabrics (Fig. 2 - Flemish School (16th century). Accessed June 6, 2019. I’m also assuming you need information on Tudor England? … Source: BNF. Source: The Wallraf-Richartz-Museum & Fondation Corboud, Fig. 1504-1507. Katherine, who later married Henry VIII, is traditionally said to have brought the Spanish farthingale to England upon her marriage to Arthur at the start of the 16th century, but they were not extensively adopted in England until the 1540s (Reynolds 41). 6) by Giorgione from around 1505 illustrates many of these trends. Arthur, Prince of Wales (1486-1502), ca. Lucas Cranach the Elder’s Portrait of a Man with a Rosary (Fig. Pointed-toe poulaines had begun to be replaced by broad-toe duckbill shoes at the end of the 15th century and became the dominant style in early 16th century. Last updated Oct 10, 2019 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Aug 13, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Aug 13, 2018 | Published on Feb 24, 2017, Last updated May 15, 2019 | Published on Mar 24, 2017. , IL, 1967, page 105 the beauty ideals of the period usually! Of Mrs. h. O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. h. O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. O.. Higher standard of living pendant pearl necklace before coming to FIT, Dr. de young taught... To indicate understated wealth or to form a strong contrast with paler.. The hippies of the 16th century 13 7/8 in ) ) shows the young boy with the characteristic Germanic! Massys ’ St. Anne altarpiece ( Fig 's Venus and Mars, between. 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